Facts About Manure: What Every Gardener Should Know

Discover the facts about manure every gardener should know—how to use cow, chicken, rabbit, and pig manure safely, and how to avoid herbicide contamination.

We all joke about “black gold” in the garden, but let’s be honest—it really is that valuable. Manure improves soil structure, boosts fertility, and builds the kind of microbial life that makes plants thrive. But not all manures are created equal, and if you’re not handling it properly, you could end up doing more harm than good.

Manure is one of my favorite tools for improving garden beds, but there are a few things every gardener should know before adding it by the bucketful. In this post, I’ll walk you through the different types of manure, how to use them safely, and what to avoid (like pathogens, raw pig waste, and even sneaky herbicides that hitch a ride in composted poo).

Let’s dig in.

Why Manure Matters in the First Place

Manure is more than just poop. It’s a rich source of organic matter, nitrogen, phosphorus, and microbial life that improves your soil over time. When aged or composted correctly, it can feed your garden, improve drainage, reduce compaction, and even out soil pH.

But the key word here is “correctly.” Manure needs time, heat, and the right carbon balance to become safe and effective.

If you’re using manure in a no-till or heavily mulched garden, it’s important to understand how manure impacts nitrogen availability in no-till or mulch-based beds. Not all nutrients behave the same way under wood chips and compost layers.

The Problem with Using Fresh Manure

Using manure straight from the barn might seem like a good idea, but there are three solid reasons to avoid it:

It Can Burn or Kill Plants

Fresh manure is often too high in nitrogen, and that concentration can “burn” seedlings or tender roots. It also contains nitrogen in a form your plants can’t use yet—aging transforms it into a more accessible version.

It Throws Off the Compost Balance

Manure is considered a “green” in composting terms. For best results, you need to balance it with enough “browns”—things like dried leaves, straw, or wood shavings—to break down safely and thoroughly.

It Can Carry Pathogens and Salt

Raw manure may contain E. coli, salmonella, parasitic eggs, or digestive salts—all of which can contaminate your soil or harm your plants. Composting at a high enough temperature kills off most of these threats. Use a compost thermometer to make sure your pile gets hot enough to kill pathogens.

Tip: Always compost manure before adding it to your vegetable garden. Aged manure is less risky and far more effective.

Quick Rundown of the Most Common Manures

So which kind of manure is right for your homestead garden? Here’s what you need to know:

Chicken Manure

Pros: Extremely high in nitrogen and phosphorus—great for leafy greens
Cons: Can burn plants if not fully aged

Cow Manure

Pros: A gentle, balanced manure safe for most gardens
Cons: Lower in nutrients than others

Horse Manure

Pros: Similar to cow, great for building soil
Cons: May contain weed seeds unless composted hot

Rabbit Manure

Pros: Pellet-like, dry, and mild—safe to apply directly in small amounts
Cons: Not as nutrient-dense as poultry manure

Goat Manure

Pros: Small, dry pellets that break down quickly
Cons: Milder nutrient profile but excellent when composted

Pig Manure

Pros: Can add organic matter when properly composted
Cons: Often wet and high in pathogens—never apply raw, especially near food crops

Don’t skip this step: Pig manure should be hot-composted for several months. It’s not safe for direct use in garden beds due to the risk of parasites and bacteria.

Best Manure Types for Different Garden Areas

Manure isn’t one-size-fits-all. Here’s how I break it down:

• Flower Gardens: Cow, horse, and rabbit manure—applied early in the season
• Vegetable Gardens: Chicken, cow, horse, and rabbit—use in spring and again in fall
• Root Crops: Same as above, but avoid fresh manure near harvest time
• Acid-Loving Plants: Stick with cow or horse manure in early fall to avoid altering soil pH too quickly

Pair your soil-building efforts with companion plants that help your soil and work well alongside manure amendments—especially herbs that fix nitrogen or deter pests.

How Much Manure Should You Use?

It depends on the application, but here are some starting points:

• General soil conditioning: 40 lbs per 100 square feet
• New or poor soil: Up to 80 lbs per 100 square feet
• Top dressing: A 1–2″ layer is usually sufficient

Pro tip: Always mix it into the top few inches of soil to avoid surface nutrient loss and reduce odors.

Looking for budget-friendly ways to feed your garden? These affordable soil-boosting tricks using items you already have in your pantry can stretch your compost and your dollar.

Heads Up: Persistent Herbicides in Manure

Even if you compost properly, there’s one thing that heat can’t destroy—persistent herbicides. These chemicals (like aminopyralid and clopyralid) are used on pastures and hay. They pass through the animals unchanged and can show up in their manure, wreaking havoc on your garden.

You may not notice until your tomatoes curl up or your beans refuse to grow—and by then, your beds could be contaminated for years. One gardener’s experience with this exact issue was eye-opening—read how The Prairie Homestead discovered herbicide-contaminated manure was ruining her garden and what she did to recover.

Tip: Always ask your manure source if their animals were fed sprayed hay or pasture forage. When in doubt, do a bioassay test using potted plants and compost before using large amounts in your garden.

Frequently Asked Manure Questions

Still have questions? You’re not alone—here are a few I hear often:

Want to remember these tips? Save this post to your gardening board so you’ll have it when you’re prepping next season’s beds.

Manure is one of the most powerful tools you can add to your homesteading garden—when used right. Whether you’ve got access to rabbit pellets, a big pile of cow manure, or just a few shovels of composted chicken waste, there’s a way to make it work.

Start with what you have. Compost it if you can. And when in doubt—test it out. Your soil (and your plants) will thank you. If your beds have been overworked or chemically damaged, manure alone might not be enough. Learn how to repair and rebuild your soil after years of heavy use with these practical strategies.

Have you used manure in your garden? Share your favorite type and how you use it in the comments—or pin this post to come back to next season.

Originally published in 2015. Updated in 2025 with new safety guidelines, manure types, and best practices for modern homesteaders.