How to Plant Garlic in Fall: Step-by-Step for a Bigger Harvest

Learn how to plant garlic in fall the right way—from prepping your soil to choosing the best cloves. This guide sets you up for an abundant summer harvest.

A hand planting a garlic clove in rich, dark garden soil with several garlic bulbs and cloves scattered nearby.

I don’t know about you, but garlic is one crop I never skip. It’s low-maintenance, cold-hardy, and just plain satisfying to grow. Plus, there’s nothing like pulling up your own plump heads of garlic next summer, knowing you planted them with your own two hands the fall before.

If you’re new to growing garlic—or just want to be sure you’re doing it right—here’s a simple, step-by-step guide to planting garlic in the fall. I’ll walk you through exactly what to do, when to do it, and a few mistakes I’ve learned to avoid the hard way.

Why Fall is the Best Time to Plant Garlic

Garlic needs a cold period to form those nice fat cloves we all love. When you plant it in the fall, it has time to establish roots before the ground freezes. Then it goes dormant through winter and kicks into gear as soon as the soil warms up in spring.

Fall planting = bigger bulbs and a better harvest. Easy win.

Step-by-Step Guide to Planting Garlic in the Fall

If this is your first time planting garlic—or if you’ve done it before but want to make sure you’re doing it right—this simple fall planting method will set you up for a strong harvest next summer. Let me walk you through each step, from choosing your cloves to tucking them in for winter.

Choose the Right Garlic

There are two main types of garlic: hardneck and softneck.

Hardneck garlic: Best for northern growers (like us here in Maine). More cold-hardy and tends to have a stronger flavor. Plus, you get garlic scapes in the spring—a tasty bonus.
Softneck garlic: Grows better in warmer climates and stores longer, but can struggle with cold temps.

A wooden bowl filled with whole garlic bulbs and separated cloves sitting on a rustic wooden surface.

For fall planting in most U.S. zones (especially 3–7), go with hardneck varieties.

Buy seed garlic from a reputable supplier or local farm stand. Grocery store garlic is usually treated to prevent sprouting and may carry diseases—ask me how I know.

Prep Your Planting Bed

Garlic is a heavy feeder, so give it rich, well-drained soil and plenty of organic matter.

Here’s how I prep my beds:

Pick a sunny spot. Garlic loves full sun.
Loosen the soil to at least 8 inches deep. Use a garden fork if it’s compacted.
Mix in compost or aged manure. If your soil is acidic, add a little lime—garlic prefers a pH of 6.5 to 7.
Rake the surface smooth.

Don’t overthink this. As long as the soil drains well and isn’t rock-hard, you’re golden.

Break Apart the Bulbs

Each clove becomes one new bulb—so choose the biggest, healthiest cloves.

Gently break apart the bulb just before planting. Leave the papery skins on the cloves.
Avoid planting the tiny inner cloves. They’ll grow, but the bulbs will be small and not worth the space.

This part is kind of meditative. Sit at the table, sip some tea, and get into the rhythm.

Plant Your Garlic

Here’s the simple rule of thumb:

Plant cloves 2–3 inches deep, pointed end up.
Space cloves 4–6 inches apart in rows about 12 inches apart.

I use my fingers to make the holes and just drop each clove in. If you’re planting a lot, a dibber or bulb planter makes life easier.

Water It In

Give the bed a good soak after planting. This helps settle the soil around the cloves and kickstarts root growth.

You won’t need to water again until spring unless you’re in an unusually dry climate.

Mulch Generously

Mulch is garlic’s best friend.

Add 3–6 inches of mulch right after watering. Straw, shredded leaves, or grass clippings all work well.
Mulch helps insulate the soil, suppress weeds, and protect the cloves through winter freezes and thaws.

I’ve skipped mulch before—and let’s just say I regretted it when the weeds came roaring back in spring and the bulbs were struggling.

Garlic plants growing through a layer of straw mulch, showing long green leaves and healthy garden soil.

When to Plant Garlic in Fall

Aim to plant 4–6 weeks before your ground freezes solid. That’s usually:

Late September to early November, depending on your location
Here in Maine, I typically plant the first or second week of October

The goal is to give the cloves enough time to sprout roots, but not enough time to send up green shoots before winter.

What to Expect After Planting

Once the garlic is in and mulched, your job is mostly done. Over winter, it’ll go dormant. You might see some green shoots in late fall or early spring—totally normal.

In spring, remove the mulch once the danger of hard frost has passed, give the garlic a little fertilizer, and watch it take off.

And come June or July, you’ll be harvesting your own beautiful bulbs.

Close-up of young garlic shoots emerging from the soil in neat rows, with vibrant green leaves reaching upward.

Once harvest rolls around, you’ll want to store your garlic so it lasts well into winter and beyond. If you’ve never done it before—or just want a refresher—here’s how to preserve garlic for long-term storage without sprouting or spoilage.

Frequently Asked Questions About Planting Garlic in Fall

Still have a few garlic questions? You’re not alone. Here are some common ones that pop up after planting time—and what you need to know.

You can, but fall planting gives you bigger, better-formed bulbs. Garlic planted in spring tends to result in smaller heads because it doesn’t have enough cold exposure (called vernalization) to fully develop.

It’s not required, but some gardeners swear by it. Soaking cloves in a mix of water and baking soda (or diluted fish emulsion) for a few hours before planting can give them a nutrient boost and help prevent fungal issues. You can also add a quick dip in vodka or hydrogen peroxide to kill surface pathogens.

That’s totally normal if you get a warm spell after planting. The green shoots may die back with the cold, but the bulb will stay safe underground and continue growing in spring. No need to replant.

Technically yes, but it’s risky. Store-bought garlic is often treated to prevent sprouting and may carry diseases that can linger in your soil. For the best results, use seed garlic from a reputable supplier or local farmer’s market. Once you’ve grown your own, you can save the biggest and healthiest cloves from your harvest to plant the following year—it’s one of the easiest crops to save seed from. Learn more about saving seed from your garden here.

Want bigger, better garlic next summer? Save this step-by-step fall planting guide to your gardening board!

A hand planting a garlic clove in dark soil above a text overlay that reads “How to Plant Garlic in the Fall: A Guide to Bigger Bulbs + Better Harvest,” with young garlic shoots growing in neat rows below.

Planting garlic in the fall is one of my favorite garden tasks. It’s simple, satisfying, and a great way to end the season on a hopeful note. Even if everything else in the garden was a flop this year, you can still plant garlic and feel like a pro come summer.

Got questions about varieties, timing, or troubleshooting? Leave them in the comments—I’m happy to help however I can.