The Best Way to Protect Chickens from Predators (Without Building a Fortress)

Learn the best way to protect chickens from predators with practical coop, run, and fencing tips that actually work for backyard flocks.

A weasel on a mossy log, looking directly at the camera — an example of a stealthy predator that can infiltrate chicken coops.

When you hear ‘predators,’ you probably picture something dramatic. Bears, coyotes, maybe a velociraptor or two. But here’s the truth: the biggest threats to backyard chickens are the sneaky ones already living nearby. Raccoons, foxes, hawks, snakes (even the neighbor’s dog) can turn a peaceful coop into an all-you-can-eat buffet if you’re not paying attention.

After more than ten years of raising chickens here in Maine, I can tell you, it’s not about turning your coop into Fort Knox. It’s about working smarter, layering your defenses, and knowing what’s out there. Here’s how I predator-proof the coop, run, and perimeter, and how to outsmart even the shrewdest raccoon without losing sleep (or chickens).

What’s Trying to Get Your Chickens?

Depending on where you live, your chickens might face threats from:

  • Raccoons and foxes (diggers and climbers)
  • Coyotes and neighborhood dogs (strong and persistent)
  • Weasels and skunks (small enough to squeeze through gaps)
  • Hawks and owls (silent hunters from above)
  • Snakes (after eggs and chicks more than adult hens)
  • …and yes, sometimes humans

Different predators try different tactics. That’s why I use layers: safe coop at night, covered run by day, perimeter locked down.

A snake slithering through a poorly secured chicken coop with loose chicken wire — a reminder of the importance of proper coop construction.

How to Predator-Proof the Coop

The coop is where it all starts. If you only upgrade one thing, make it this.

Train Chickens to Roost Inside

If your birds have decided the porch is home, that’s a problem waiting to happen. Chickens are creatures of habit, so get them used to roosting inside from the start. With young birds, shoo them into the coop before dusk for a few nights. They’ll get the hang of it quick.

Once everyone’s in, lock it. Raccoons and opossums clock in at dusk.

Raise the Coop Off the Ground

Raise the coop 12–24 inches. It keeps snakes/rodents from nesting under there and gives you better airflow. Plus, I’ve found that even a few inches of height discourages critters from clawing or chewing their way in.

Cover Every Opening

Here’s where most people slip up. Chicken wire sounds like it would be right for your chickens, but it won’t actually protect your birds. It’s soft, it rusts fast, and a raccoon can tear through it like it’s nothing. Use ¼-inch hardware cloth for every window, vent, and gap larger than a pencil. Keep an eye on the edges. Wood shifts and rots, and critters test weak spots.

Backyard chickens inside a secure coop with hardware cloth and a humorous sign that reads “Beware of Attack Chicken.”

Use Latches a Raccoon Can’t Figure Out

If your latch is easy for you, it’s easy for a raccoon. Use spring-loaded barrel bolts, padlocks, or even carabiner-style clips. Use something that basically requires opposable thumbs to open. If you’ve ever had problems with two-legged predators (humans), a simple padlock adds peace of mind.

If you’re just getting started with chickens, this beginner’s guide on how to care for laying hens covers the basics of housing, feeding, and coop setup.

How to Reinforce the Run

Even a strong coop won’t help much if your chickens spend their days in a weak run.

Use Strong Fencing

Skip anything labeled “chicken wire.” It keeps chickens in, but doesn’t keep predators out. Instead, use welded wire or heavy-duty hardware cloth with openings no larger than ½ inch. Electric poultry netting is a solid flexible option. I use it to rotate grazing and it’s kept out dogs and foxes for me.

Add a Top (Yes, Even if You Think You Don’t Need One)

Hawks and owls don’t make a sound until it’s too late. Cover your run with wire mesh, netting, or even a tarp. Anything that blocks access from above. It also keeps adventurous hens from flying out. If you have a few fliers in your flock, learn how to clip chicken wings safely so they stay grounded and protected.

Don’t Forget the Perimeter

Predators like foxes, coyotes, and even dogs often dig under fencing or chew at weak spots. Here’s how to block them before they start.

Bury Wire Around the Run

Bury hardware cloth about a foot deep or lay it flat in an L-shape around the edge of your run. That ‘predator apron’ keeps diggers out. I watched a fox give up after a few minutes. It works.

Add Motion Lights or Sprinklers

Lights and noise won’t fix a bad fence, but they do make most critters think twice. Solar-powered predator lights that look like eyes work surprisingly well, and motion sprinklers do a good job of scaring off the curious ones.

Use Scent and Sight Deterrents

Predator urine, reflective tape, and fake owls can help. Just move them around so nothing gets used to them. Animals get desensitized to them if they never move.

A plastic owl decoy mounted on a yellow building — a common but often ineffective predator deterrent used by chicken keepers.

If you want to go a step further, you may want to look into choosing the best livestock guardian animal for your homestead. Sometimes four legs and a loud bark are your best defense.

If Something Still Gets In…

Even with the best setup, things happen. If you’ve lost birds, look for signs to identify the culprit:

  • Missing heads or neck wounds? Likely a raccoon or weasel.
  • Scattered feathers and missing hens? Think fox, coyote, or dog.
  • Eggs gone but hens fine? Probably a snake or rat.

Once you know who’s sneaking in, fix the weak spot they used—tighter wire, deeper fencing, better latches, or motion lights aimed right where they came through. If you live near woods or fields, these extra strategies for safeguarding livestock against common Maine predators will help keep all your animals secure year-round.

Common Questions About Keeping Predators Out

Still worried about something getting in? Here are the questions I hear most.

Look at the clues first. Missing heads usually mean raccoons, bite marks on the neck often mean weasels, and scattered feathers suggest foxes or dogs. Setting up a trail camera can confirm your suspicions.

Start with the basics: hardware cloth over openings, sturdy latches, and a raised coop. Even cheap motion lights can make a difference.

They help, but only alongside good wire and a locked coop. I use both, but I still lock up every night and check my fencing regularly.

Not usually, unless you’ve had repeated losses from hawks or dogs. A secure covered run or supervised free-ranging is usually enough.

Absolutely. They’re noisy, alert, and quick to sound the alarm. If you’re curious about adding them, check out my post on why you should raise a guinea fowl flock on your homestead.

Don’t let the raccoons win! Save this post to your chicken care board so it’s there when you need it.

A weasel standing upright in tall grass, alert and scanning its surroundings — a common backyard predator of chickens.

You’ve put time, care, and probably a fair bit of money into your backyard chickens. Don’t let one raccoon undo it overnight.

The best way to protect chickens from predators isn’t about spending thousands or overcomplicating things. It all comes down to consistency. Lock up at dusk, do a quick weekly check, and think like the thing trying to get in. What would you try to get into if you were desperate?

It’s small habits, over and over. That’s what keeps birds safe. And trust me, walking out each morning to a safe, happy flock is worth every bit of the effort.

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4 Comments

  1. If the run and coop are predator proof, is it safe to just lock the chickens in the attached run with the coop door open? Or would you have the coop door locked? And if so, would you keep food and water in the coop, and not just the run?

  2. dorothy ashlock says:

    lots of good ideas-thanks